![]() ![]() Then when the print run is over, remove the plate from the tape and the tape from the sleeve with less force to help reduce plate waste, save time and improve operations. In addition, Pro-Series tapes featuring the 3M™ Comply™ Adhesive System require up to 54% less force for removal from the sleeve**.ģM™ Cushion-Mount™ Plate Mounting Tapes help your print room be optimal, consistent and productive by offering the industry’s largest range of tape densities, each produced to tight caliper tolerances and engineered to stick firmly with the crosshatch pattern in the adhesive that helps air escape. 3M™ Cushion-Mount™ L-series and Pro-series mounting tapes are optimised to prevent edge lift, yet flexo plates are up to 78% easier to remove*. Have a few practice runs - you will soon get the "hang" of it.Removing flexographic plates in one undamaged piece lets you reuse rather than remake plates, saving both time and money. The flat-bottom drill is only doing the same job as a more expensive milling cutter anyway. Do set the depth guage on the drill/mill just leave the drill "hard down" on the stop and let it finally clean it out - and voilà - counter-bore done. Slow the drill down and fit the flat-bottom/ed drill, use plenty of cutting/tapping oil and just feed slowly and "peck" the cone out. So if say you were to drill a 1/4" hole and a 1/2" counter-bore, just drill the 1/4" hole as normal, follow it with a 3/8" and 1/2" normal drills so that all you had to do with the flat-bottom/ed drill was to "clean up/out" the "cone" from the 3/8" and 1/2" drills. Grind the now "flat/square" drill end so that you have minimal (say 5 to 10 degrees) of "front clearance". OF FOUNDATION (TYP.) SEE STIFFENER PLATE DETAIL. Built in 1769 by William Harwood, the ‘T’- frame Georgian-style house renamed Endview in the 1850s, served as a Confederate hospital during the 1862 Peninsula Campaign. ERECTION ANGLE, SEE SIGN-700-SERIES-Eng (TYP.) CONCRETE FLUSH WITH. ![]() Just grind the end of the drill "square" - as if you were "facing off" a rod in the lathe. The Endview Plantation in Newport News, Virginia is the venue for many living history and reenactment events, such as the Endview Plantation Civil War Living History Weekend. Make it from an old/existing drill of the required size - the shorter the better as it works better if "stiffer" and less flexible than a new/ish drill. It is quite possible and normal - and functional - to make and use a flat-bottom/ed drill. I realize that a counter bore might be used in some applications but if they make end mills that can be plunged, what are they called and where can they be purchased. I need holes to be flat on the bottom or otherwise I would use a drill. I'm sure they make them (they seem to make everything else), but I would like to purchase several end mills that can be plunged into metal, e.g., 1/2 inch deep, or be plunged into a smaller existing hole. Should I post separate threads to address my three projects since you've answered my question about end mills that can be plunged or can talk on the three projects be continued in this thread? ![]() Fruits ripen and are ready to harvest between the months of August and October. The most pressing project is the 1" dia blind hole with a flat bottom. There is a natural large grove in the woods of Historic Endview. these are my needs hence my reasons for posing the initial question of plunging an end mill. The material for this project is aluminum. The third project involves creating a blind hole 1" in dia to a depth of 1" and the bottom of the hole must be flat and square with the hole's vertical wall. Because it was not "center cutting" it ceased to cut when coming to rest on the non-cutting area of the end mill. I attempted to use a 4 flute cutter to counter bore a hole and it worked well for only a short distance. The second project resembles Willy's project. Flats on the hex head are damaged from oxidation so I thought I would remove the hex head screw by carefully plunging an end mill to depth of the original shoulder hoping to preserve the "flat" on which the hex head rest and worry about the remaining stub once the rotary top had been removed. I need to remove the top of the rotary table for cleanup purposes and one hex head screw is so badly oxidized that it can't be removed. The first and less pressing project involves a badly corroded hex screw in the top of a 10" rotary table. I am working on three unrelated projects all needing flat bottom holes or shoulders. THESE VIEWS ARE ONLY REPRESENTATIONAL AND TO BE USED AS REFERENCE. SmokeDaddy has also posted a link that demonstrated a similar need. SYNCHRO PANELS WITH NO UPTURN (2, 4, 6) - SPLICE PLATE - END VIEW. Willy has posted a picture of a mounting plate that pretty much demonstrates what I need to do with regard to plunging. ![]()
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